The Industry's Top 12 Trends for 2018

RAPAPORT...Trend forecasting is equal parts science and art - you needto be widely aware of key happenings in your industry, and discerning enough toknow which ones will be most influential. Fortunately for readers, RapaportMagazine has been paying attention, and has tapped the savvy minds of thejewelry trade to get a sense of what's coming. Below are the fruits of theseefforts: 12 trends affecting jewelry in 2018 that you need to know about now.In manufacturing, retail and design 1. History lessons History and heritage are wholeheartedly inspiring jewelrydesigners. From coins to architectural influences, artisans are letting thepast inspire future heirlooms. Themes of protection include evil eyes and Latinverses, while medieval artifacts and cameos recall sacred symbols and signs oflifestyles long ago. Brooches - an ancient ornament and cyclical fashionfavorite - are back this season as well, having taken up residence on spring2018 couture runways. This revival offers "a thread of continuity, when designerslook to history for inspiration and then put their own spin on the styles,"says Marion Fasel, founder and editorial director of jewelry websiteTheAdventurine.com. Nikos Koulis's Art Deco numbers and Arman Sarkisyan's 19th-centuryvibe are prime examples. Also important: David Webb, whose jewels Fasel calls"a wonderful way to time travel." 2. Online sales for independents For independent jewelers, the retail landscape for sales isbeyond tough. Between online competitors like Neiman Marcus and designersselling directly to the consumer, many mom-and-pop operations struggle tocompete. That's where an e-commerce-enabled website can help level the playingfield. The competition is already selling online, so why aren't small-scalemerchants? A 2016 report by research firm Forrester predicted online salesincreasing by at least 34% to more than $500 billion by 2020. So having ane-store makes a business more relevant to the growing population of shopperswho rely on the internet to research purchases before buying. "It is harder to offer a good product at a fair price andbelieve that you can compete with the convenience, value and accessibility of areputable online purchase," observes luxury consultant Andrea Hansen. 3. Accessible colored diamondsIt's time for jewelers to embrace what the high-end designcommunity knows is true: Abundant non-white natural hues of diamonds are prettyand should be promoted. Browns, rustic colors and included stones account forthe majority of natural colored diamonds, and while many artisans successfullysell them, independent store owners still eschew them like a landscape artistavoids portraits. "Jewelers have inherited a lot of prejudices, but it's time tobe free of negative attitudes about certain colors," says Alan Bronstein,president of the Natural Color Diamond Association - a group known for membersthat sell rare hues like red. A good way to introduce consumers to the market,he suggests, is to say, "Here are the rare colors and here are the other ones,and oh - look at how beautiful they are!" 4. Full-circle style The simple circle is constantly being reinvented, and thisseason is no exception. The debut of Spinelli Kilcoin multi-band ring sets afew years ago sparked a newfound love for more geometrically inspired styles,and a mushrooming affinity for inherently round pearls fits naturally into thiscircular revolution. Some disco-ball themes have appeared in the mix - such asCarelle at the 2017 Couture Jewelry show - and an ongoing love affair withunconventional hoop earrings, including sideways-facing and small huggie-esquenumbers, continues to thrive. Now is the time for loop-de-loops, hoops andeverlasting links, which are proving as eternal as the sanctity of weddingbands. 5. Creating experiences An experience is what many merchants strive to provide forclients, but since the tired trunk show model frequently disappoints, a numberof retailers and brands are literally thinking outside the store. Retailerslike Trish Roberson of Roberson's Fine Jewelry in Little Rock, Arkansas,shuttles clients all over the US to meet artists, while Cathy Calhoun ofCalhoun Jewelers in Royersford, Pennsylvania, hosts an annual Oscars party forclients at a theater near her store. "It's about differentiation and staying relevant - creatingmemories, the human touch, emotional engagement," says Hansen. Professionalismmatters, too, given that 64% of respondents to a recent Jewelers of America(JA) study consulted a jewelry-store expert before making a purchase. 6. Layered up Layering is a look that endures, and it's not just fornecklaces. Sure, long layers of chains and multi-piece styles are an instanthit, but so are mix-and-match earrings that adorn multiple lobe holes andcreate compelling stories that trail up the ear. Stacks of bracelets and rings,too, build bigger effects on wrists and fingers, and are an easy way to guideannual gifting traditions. Plus, layering is a retailer's way of gettingcustomers to spend more in an increasingly casual culture that calls for lesspricey accessories. Caryl Capeci, president of Hearts On Fire, is alreadydeclaring 2018 "the year of layering" because of the versatility factor. Forproof, she points to holiday sales, which at press time were looking up thanksto stackables. 7. Transparency in sourcingTransparency has changed from a convenient buzzword to afour-syllable rallying cry in jewelry, especially among millennials. Theseconsumers and reluctant jewelry collectors demand it, and tend to take greaterinterest in products and businesses that show transparent practices. That's whythey like lab-grown diamonds - for the perceived good they do the earth, sincethey're not a product of mining. This is also why Chopard promotes itsFairmined gold: It's good PR and good for business. At mining company Greenland Ruby, responsible best practicesare mandatory and part of its license. "Modern and industrializedcolored-gemstone mining operations are set up to track and trace material frommine to market," says Hayley Henning, vice president of sales and marketing forthe company. In business and fashion - and why the industry should care8. Social responsibility Social responsibility is the overarching mantra that makestransparent sourcing a reality. Socially responsible moves include usingethically acquired gold and gemstones that ensure fair wages and safe workingconditions. "We can be socially responsible and change communities in apositive way simply by conducting our business in an aware and fair fashion,"notes Susan Wheeler Geraghty, owner of Susan Wheeler Designs. Geraghty, who ison the board of the Ethical Metalsmiths, also founded The Chicago ResponsibleJewelry Conference and is involved with the Jewelry Industry Summit.Why youshould care: The heartwarming tales of success resulting from these practicescan be game-changers for store sales once consumers - particularly millennials- grasp their meaning. Jewelers can speed up the process by sharing the talesuntil they hit viral status. 9. Estate jewelryOften, the best values in jewelry are in estate cases.That's because many of the best-quality gems were mined long ago, and as istypical of natural resources, they've dwindled with time. Plus, have younoticed the number of firms popping up (Circa and Del Gatto, among others) thatspecialize in buying and reselling fine and rare gems, while others purchasejewels for investment through companies like Arcot Finance? Why you should care: Jewelers who deal in estate goods can bank on bettermargins and quality merchandise, provided they have the know-how (read:gemology degree) to assess pieces themselves. And acquisitions can sit securelyin a safe collecting interest, just like money in the bank, until you're readyto sell. 10. Casual styles prevail The ongoing phenomenon of athleisure paves the way for thecasual trend in jewelry. Who needs a massive rivi??re when your daily wardrobeconsists of yoga pants? "As a society, our wardrobes are more casual, and we wantjewelry that can take us from day to evening," says Amanda Gizzi, director ofPR and events for JA. Why you should care: Casual jewels are lighter and ideal for layering - and asnoted before, one way to compensate for selling less-expensive jewelry is toget customers to buy more individual items: stacking rings and bracelets, tiersof necklaces in varying lengths, and trails of earrings up each lobe. Ensuresales associates are mix-masters themselves in-store so they can effectivelymerchandise items by wearing them. 11. Connecting with consumers Manufacturers have long worked under the radar, sellingtheir pieces to retail clients that then market them as their own. Now,however, in today's look-at-me-on-social-media era, it's fashionable toself-promote to help drive traffic to stores. It's also a complete 180 for manymakers, and a move that calls for fast and furious outreach to consumersdirectly. Why you should care: Money and sales. How will jewelry shoppers know aboutbrands and designers if said entities are not making noise to attractattention? From a single artisan working at a bench to a big-name jewelryhouse, connecting directly with consumers helps drive awareness, traffic andrevenue. 12. Courting women It's not a new idea, but it's one that store owners oftenseem to forget: Women are the primary wearers of jewelry and are buying more ofit themselves, even though industry advertising still largely appeals to themen who gift it. Recent marketing from De Beers aims to alter this course, withCEO Bruce Cleaver telling the media this past fall that the company wanted to"give even deeper meaning to the diamonds [women] are proud to wear and pass onto [the] next generations." Why you should care: Understanding how to sell to women (look to lifestylestores for tips) will help boost jewelry sales.This article was first published in the January issue of Rapaport Magazine.